A ROAD TRIP IN MESSINIA, WEST PELOPONNESE

Quite often people from abroad consider Greece as the country with the beautiful islands. Of course this is true but Greece is not only that. Islands are unique and gorgeous but the mainland is absolutely amazing as well. A characteristic example is the PELOPONNESE and one of my favorite areas for the summer season is “Messinia”.

To begin with, Peloponnese is divided into 7 major regions:

• Korinthia
• Achaia
• Argolida
• Arkadia
• Ileia
• Lakonia and
• Messinia in the southwest.

Messinia(Messenia) is magical with so many options, unique landscapes, beautiful beaches, very well organized beach bars, delicious food and good prices! You just need a car and you can start your adventure!

BEACHES to visit:

1. Voidokilia beach: one of the most famous beaches in Greece, sandy and beautiful. Not organized. Angel’s tip: As you walk towards the entrance of the beach, if you head left, you will get to Voidokilia main beach. If you head to the right, you will find “Glossa” beach. It is relatively hidden with clay but adorable.  As ‘Glossa’ is more remote, you may come across nudists from time to time, so keep that in mind.                   
2. Lagouvardos beach: 2km long, with 2-3 beach bars, umbrellas and sunbeds but plenty of free space as well if you don’t want to make use of the facilities. Angel’s tip: Famous beach for surfers & limited free camping.
   

   Lagouvardos beach where you can rent a surf board

3. Ammolofoi: I loved the trail towards the beach through sand dunes & the amazing sandyyy beach!
4. Kalogria/Stoupa beach: sandy , organized (too many sunbeds in my opinion), clean waters. Angel’s tip: rent a water bike to see the impressive caves between the rocks!
5. Foneas beach close to Kardamyli: Fantastic waters, pebbles all over the beach. Ideal as well for those who like to jump in the water from high rocks. Beach is not organized but there is a cantine with snacks & coffee next to the parking area. Angel’s tip: If you plan on climbing the rocks to jump into the water, make sure you wear sea shoes in order not to get hurt!
6. Peroulia beach in Koroni area.  Angel’s tip: hidden gem is Agia Triada in Koroni.
7. Golden beach – Divari beach in Gialova is sandy with beach bar. Angel’s tip: You can find a point that you can walk and not swim at all to reach the Sfaktiria island. 
8. Zagka beach in Koroni , sandy and long. Angel’s tip: Stunning views/photos of the beach from the Christian beautiful church St. Eleistria that worth a visit if you are around. 
9. Gnospi in Agios Nikolaos after Stoupa which is a beautiful little place for a swim, deep crystal clear waters in a sheltered part of the bay with caves. Easy to climb steps to get out and  shower nearby you can use.
10. Foinikounta beach: sandy, kids friendly with clear waters. Angel’s tip: hidden gems and not organised close to Foinikounta are Tsapi & Marathi beaches (Tsapi is hard to reach but definitely worth the effort!) 
11. Kyparissia beach: Not something special but organized, long and sandy with beautiful sunsets.
    

    Kyparissia beach

Fyi even the beach you can find in Kalamata city is beautiful. Crystal clear waters and many beach bars. Angel’s tip: A nice one with delicious cocktails: Tricky Bar.

I was impressed by the BEACH BARS in Messinia. Especially by the first 2 on my list below, for the really exceptional ambiance and the high level of service.

My favorite ones:

1. KOA beach bar: incredible display, great food, perfect clean swimming pool and nice music. It also has the sea side lounge with sunbedsl. Angel’s tip: Great cocktails, try them even off menu!
   

   Koa beach

2. AMMOTHINES beach bar/restaurant: loved it, long and sandy with 2 separate beaches, many sunbeds & umbrellas.  They had even created a water slide for kids. Shisha available as well.
3. AMMOLOFOI: snacks, cocktails, great scenery in this sandy beach…!
   

   Ammolofoi beach

4. HOBO beach bar: close to Kitries in Avia with pebbles, DJ music & sometimes parties late afternoon hrs,  sunbeds for free, snacks & drinks.
5. KITRO beach bar: next to the sea in Kitries and among 2 great restaurants, cool music & sometimes owner plays live on the guitar.
6. GIN GER beach bar: not the most gorgeous beach in Messinia but nice sunbeds, cocktails and great parties after 17:00 hrs lt some days till night. In Almyros area.
7. TROPICOLA : new beach bar close to Mantineia with great snacks and cool drinks. Organized with nice sunbeds for free and pebbles.
   

   Tropicola beach bar

8. AKTI BEACH BAR: in Santova, a combination of sea and a great swimming pool with nice sunbeds and options for drinks and food.

GREAT SMALL ISLANDS to visit for amazing beaches, or just for dives & adventures in crystal clear waters.

• “Proti island” by boat from Marathopoli in Messinia
• “Sfaktiria” & ” Pylos” island from Pylos city. Angel’s tip: For Sfaktiria ask the locals for a point from the opposite side in Gialova Divari beach that you can walk to get there (no need to swim at all)
• “Sapientza” island from Methoni port in Messinia.It has been included in the Natura 2000 network. Amazing waters!
  

  Sapientza waters

• “Schiza” & “Agia Marina” islands from Foinikounda city. The deepest point of the Mediterranean Sea is located south-west of the island.
• “Venetiko” rocky island from Foinikounda city.

Angel’s tip: For a wonderful experience in amazing crystal clear waters and Sfaktiria island, check Proti cruises. A company that organizes small day trip in Navarino bay, departing from Gialova pier. More details here. 

Undoubtedly all the area has amazing RESTAURANTS, exceptional Greek dishes, fresh products, delicious local flavours and normal prices. Below I will recommend some of the restaurants I tried and really liked. If you are in the area don’t miss them:

• “Kardamo” in the center of Kalamata city. Angel’s trip: Extremely delicious dishes like burger withpulled pork, kotsi(pork knuckle in the picture below), pastitsio, rooster, local sfela cheese & many more.
• “Oinopantopoleion” in Kalamata, so tasty – they use only local products.
• “En Ripesi tavern” in Kefalochori with great views – hidden gem recommended by many locals.
• “Palia Agora” in Ano Poli in Kyparissia with great view outside. Angel’s tip: Try the salad with the local Messinian products (lalagia & local cheese)  as shown in the picture below.
• “Argyris” traditional tavern outside Pylos in a small village. Curvy road to get there but worth it! Angel’s tip: Ask for “Petoules” dish.
• “Kapetanakis” in Gargaliani square for tasty local meat. Angel’s tip: preorder by phone exceptional local “gourounopoula” meat (slow roasted pork)
• “Gaitanaros” especially for fresh fish with beautiful setup close to Kitries. Tables on the beach and proper service. The food is very tasty and reservation is needed. Angel’s tip: in case you want delicious lobster pasta preorder by phone in advance.
• “Mimis” in Kitries as well for fish & meat with wonderful view next to the sea. Good prices.
• “Anavriti” restaurant in Megali Mantineia village: in a beautiful setting  in the mountain (ask for directions if you cannot find it) for local exceptional food, great ambiance and gorgeous views. Angel’s tip: try the “Maniatiki pasta” called Tsouhti.
  

  Anavryti tavern

• “Il gusto” in case you want Italian cuisine close to Avia village.
• “Old Kardamili Traditional Restaurant”, “Gialos”, “Lela’s Taverna”, “Dioskouri” and “Elies restaurant”: in Kardamyli for delicious local food.
• “Yioryitsa’s Backyard” close to Kardamyli.
• “Restaurant Sapienza” by a local family in Methoni for great home cooked Greek food. Angel’s tip: Delicious French fries and Greek salad apart from the main courses.
• “Elli’ s Tavern” in Agios Nikolaos close to Stoupa.
• “Stoupa Restaurant” in Stoupa.
• “Klēmatariá” restaurant in Methoni for high quality Greek food.
• “Pisina Pool bar” and “Petrino Balcony” in Kalo Nero close to Kyparissia.

For the adventurous ones that want to see something different:

• Neda Waterfalls: 2 ways to arrive! 1. Starting from Kyparissia city & driving towards the waterfalls you pass through Avlona & Sidirokastro villages. You arrive in Platania village & you follow the signs, like I did, that lead to a dirt road that needs careful driving.  2. Follow the directions on the GPS with more distance to drive & according to people who have tried it, you need to swim and hike to finally get to the waterfalls. I chose to go through the Platania bridge, I followed a small hiking trail and arrived in the stunning 2 waterfalls (make sure you dont miss the second and biggest waterfall. After you pass the bridge of the first waterfall, make sure you follow the yellow arrows that turn right to the bigger waterfall). The trail is not easy for young children.
  

  Neda waterfalls

• Polylimnio: magical scenery with waterfalls and lakes. Next to the village Kazarma there is the Charavgi village, from where the path to Polilimnio begins (there is a sign leading to Polilimnio on the main road).

If you love ancient Greece, I suggest to visit the below sights:

• Methoni castle
• Kyparissia castle
• Niokastro, the castle in Pylos
• Archeological museum of Pylos
• Old Navarino castle
• Ancient Thouria
• Koroni castle
• Ancient Messene
• Nestor’s palace

MUST visit bars a bit outside Kalamata for breathtaking views of Kalamata city:

• Kastraki : view and all setup is incredible, an amazing space a bit outside of Kalamata. They have as well shisha and food. Angel’s tip: Sunset time is the best!
• Arossa : recommended with great views for cocktails & drinks.

HOTELS IN MESSINIA:

I have visited Messinia many times and I have chosen different areas to stay each time.

• If your purpose is to surf, you can stay in Lagouvardos area. I chose “Lagouvardos village” once and was nice.
• If you visit during summer and want to be close to the beach, you can choose wonderful villages with hotels close to Pylos, Kyparissia, Methoni, Kardamyli…it depends on which area you want to discover/relax.
• If you don’t want to stay in a village, you want nightlife and prefer bigger hotels with all inclusive (in case you want) services, choose Kalamata city. A wonderful city with many options that you can combine everything. I love it!
• If you want luxury (and you don’t care about budget) visit Costa Navarino. One of the most famous & luxury hotels in Greece is situated in Messinia close to Gialova and Pylos cities. It is a huge area with deluxe hotels, infinity pools, many dining options, signature golf courses & plethora of sports, leisure and entertainment activities. It is incredible!

Costa Navarino is an absolute golf destination & upon completion (August 2023) will comprise 4 hotels, all 5-stars:

1. “The Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort” in Romanos area, kids friendly
2. ”The Westin Resort, Costa Navarino” in Romanos area, kids friendly
3. “W Costa Navarino” in Gialova area, adults and kids over 12 yrs old
4. ”Mandarin Oriental” in Gialova area

Angel’s tip: Even if you don’t stay in Costa Navarino,  you can visit for a dinner in the restaurants or drinks. It’s an experience! I loved Between in W hotel, Parelia beach club in W hotel and Onuki for sushi in Westin/Romanos hotels. Everything though is top but very expensive.

I love so much the villages around MESSINIA, I would recommend to visit them and stroll around!

1.Kyparissia in Ano Poli to have a dinner or drink 

2.Filiatra , drive through the town in order to see their version of the Eiffel Tower at the town entrance.

3.Pylos ,which is a port, with a variety of restaurants(many of them with a sea view), a castle & shops.

4.Gialova, one of the most popular places on the west coast of Messinia for food & drinks

5.Methoni with the beautiful castle (entrance fee 3€, 19:30 last entrance during summer & closed on Tuesdays)

6.Foinikounta,  that you feel like you are in an island! Village has glorious sunsets and beautiful taverns around to eat & enjoy it!

7.Koroni, the beautiful/small seaside town, with an impressive castle.

8.Kitries, with the popular seafood restaurants.

9.Kardamyli, the famous fishing village

10. And of course don’t forget beautiful Kalamata city.…. <3

 

Peloponnese & Messinia, you are gorgeous and I will be back sooo soon!

*For more pics check my highlight & posts in Instagram*

IG: angeliki.a_