Did you know that in Greece there are a few islands so small that you can get from one side to the other by only driving 30 minutes? Folegandros island is one of them!
A small & quiet wonderful Greek island with an impressive Chora and great people!
It is in the Cyclades island complex, so be prepared for a bit of wind and have a jacket with you at night!
Let me start with some tips!
First, it’s not an island with many villages to discover, there are 3 main settlements:
- Chora
- the port called Karavostasis and
- Ano Meria which is actually a road with shops/restaurants and rooms-to-let around.
ACCESS
Ferry from Piraeus takes 8-10 hours to arrive and from Lavrion port 12-13 hrs and there is no access by airport making it less attractive to the eyes of some tourists and locals. But you can get there quicker like I did! How? Read below:
Angel’s tip: If you are bored of many hours in a ferry, take the plane from Athens or your city of origin to Santorini island & then 50 minutes the ferry to Folegandros with @seajetsgr like I did. Or slower ferries with duration 3 hours much cheaper with only 8-12 euros per person.
Another option is to take the fast ferry 3-4 hrs with @seajetsgr from Piraeus port to Sifnos, Milos, Ios or Santorini islands(maybe there are other options as well) and then again the fast ferry of @seajetsgr for Folegandros.
You can book your tickets here: Ferryscanner.com
CHORA
The capital(town) of the island called Chora is magnificent. So beautiful, so calm, so romantic!
Full of cute small squares, shops, restaurants and bars. It is a must to stroll around day AND night and get lost in the alleys and the castle. Most of the “life” in the island is there! Angel’s tip: for the above reasons and especially if you don’t have a car or you have but you don’t want to drive at night I totally recommend that you stay in Chora.
ACCOMMODATION
Many lovely hotels and rooms to let in Folegandros. Generally though I find them a bit overpriced. I booked online “Kallisti” hotel and location was excellent. Angel’s tip: I totally recommend that you stay in Chora and book a few months in advance since the island is small. If you want a solitary accomodation check Ano Meria area.
Kallisti hotel, where I stayed, has a swimming pool as well.
BEACHES
Beaches are not organized, have a tent or an umbrella with you to protect yourself from the sun.
On the north:
Agkali: a family friendly beach with parking and even a bus stop. It is not organized with sunbeds and umbrellas but there are some restaurants around and cafes. Angel’s tip: Agkali is the easiest beach since access is by car and there are restaurants around, that’s why it is usually crowded. Furthermore most of the boats start from here towards the rest of the beaches.
Fira: 10 minutes on foot from Agkali with magnificent waters, some call it a nudist beach.
Galyfos beach
Galyfos: 8 minutes walk from Agkali (from the opposite direction than Fira), pebbly with wonderful waters. Angel’s tip: there are some cute eco-friendly rooms to let there without electricity! How amazing?
Agios Nikolaos: the beach that you can reach after 15 minutes walk from Galyfos or with local boats from Agkali beach. I took the local boat one way and I paid 3 euros for 5 minutes, they depart every 30-60 minutes.
Livadaki: wonderful waters, take the boat from Agkali to reach this beach or walk from Ano Meria 45 minutes. Angel’s tip: Paid 14 euros round trip for the boat from Agkali to Livadaki, then Agios Nikolaos beach and back to Agkali beach.
Ambeli: Again on foot from Ano Meria or by car through a long dirt road and a footpath. Angel’s tip: I think the best way to visit this spot, is by joining the boat tour of the island (day trip) via Diaplous travel, like I did! The difficult access in my opinion is not worth your time.
On the East:
Katergo: the most famous beach in the island, access either by boat from the port “Karavostasis” or on foot 30 minutes from “Livadi” area.
Karavostasis (Chochlidia): family beach in the port with several trees providing shade.
Latinaki: Very small bay in front of the port.
Vitsentzou: difficult access, small one with crystal clear waters.
Pountaki: small one, close to Livadi area like the 2 previous ones.
Livadi: long beach with a bit of shade, accessible easily by car – nothing extraordinary but less crowded. Close to the camping of the island.
Agkali beach
Close to the port: (on foot)
Vardia beach: Long magnificent sandy beach outside (and pebbles inside), easy access since you park at the port and you just walk a few minutes to find the stairs that lead down to the beach!
On the West:
Agios Georgios: dirt road by car 10 minutes or 45 minutes walk from Ano Meria
Ligaria: Pebbly beach with a dirt road to get there 10 minutes by car from Ano Meria or on foot 45-50 minutes. (not so easy by scooter)
On the South:
Serfiotiko: no sand, on foot 15-25 minutes from Ano Meria (not an easy trail) or by boat if you are lucky and the island is not affected by north winds. You may be alone there! Angel’s tip: have hiking shoes with you, not ideal for kids.
Vorina: on foot 20-25 minutes from the footpath starting from Agia Paraskeui church and Ag. Saranta .
CAR
A car/motorcycle is not absolutely necessary in the island since the access in many beaches is by boat & there is a local bus with regular schedules. It is very helpful though. If you don’t rent a car though, stay in Chora in order to avoid the transportation during night. Angel’s tip: Call the car rental companies before booking online since they may give you better price through phone or an extra discount. I used Kountouris car rentals. Link here.
FYI bus connecting the port with the Chora starts around 08:30 am till midnight – every one hour.
MUST DO:
- Have a boat tour around the island, wonderful waters 6 hours with 50€ pp. I chose @folegandros_diaplous_travel . This way, you can visit the caves of the island like Chrysospilia and have stops in many of the beaches of the island. Depending of the wind, there are boat tours for the north side of the island or the south(the most common).
- Enjoy the stunning sunset in Church of Panagia. (15-20 minutes walk from Chora) Panagia is the largest church on Folegandros, dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin Mary. It is built on a rock above Chora.
FOOD
You are lucky! You can eat excellent food in most of the restaurants on the island.
Kritikos restaurant
Local food you must try in Folegandros island:-Matsata (handmade local tagliatelle with rooster or rabbit)-Local cheeses like Souroto-Kalasouna pie (cheese and onions pie)-Biskotenia (dessert dish)-Karpouzenia (desesrt dish based on watermenlon)
Angel’s tip: Don’t forget to try the local beer called KATSIKA.
Do you want any food recommendations?
Restaurants in Chora-Kritikos for meat, Piatsa / Melissa for local dishes.-Spitiko for matsata with many options.-Excellent Barbounaki for more creative fish related dishes, Zefiros and Maistrali for fish.-Ouzo & mezze plates at Gioupi.
-Eva’s garden & Blue cuisine for gourmet dishes.-Chik for vegetarian options and more.
Barbounaki restaurant is amazing
Desserts-Theios(Gelateria Lo Zio) for ice cream
-Le petit
-Papasagas
Restaurants in Agios Nikolaos beach:
-Agios Nikolaos tavern, literally on the beach. Angel’s tip: Try the feta cheese with honey & the lobster pasta!
-Papalagi seafood restaurant.
Restaurants in Ano Meria-Eirini’s grocery store & Synantisi for matsata & Mimi’s tavern for octopus and matsata.-Psaromiligkas restaurant in Agkali for the best goat dishes.
Matsata, Kalasouna, Zucchini balls and local wine in “Eirini’s”
Breakfast & light lunch-Pounta cafe-Prickly bear
Drinks-Astarti for Rakomelo (raki with honey and cinnamon).
-BaRaki-Beez-Ydrochoos
-Pounta. Angel’s tip: they have live music some nights, check them out! 
SUNSET TIME
The best sunset of the island is in Ano Meria, just drive and walk onto a rock to enjoy it!
But extraordinary impressive sky colors you can see in:
-Church of Panagia, as mentioned already as a must.
-Rakentia all day bar
-Fata Morgana hotel as per the pic below and Anemomylos hotel on the way to Panagia church
Interesting things to do:
-Hiking, especially if you decide to reach some beaches on foot you will really enjoy it. Angel’s tip: In springtime and early summer, the island is rich in caper flowers, thyme, and oregano as well . Can you smell it?
-Fishing tour with local experienced fishermen, duration 09:00-15:00. More info in Diaplous travel agency.
-Visit the Ecological & Folklore Museum housed in a traditional 19th-century building in Ano Meria.
Gelateria Lo Zio
An island close by to combine : Sikinos but there are also ferries to Milos, Sifnos, Santorini, Ios etc
For more pictures and posts check my relevant highlight & posts on Instagram!
IG: angeliki.a_