ALSACE: DO FAIRYTALES EXIST?

Alsace is a wonderful historical region in Νortheastern France, on the Rhine River, close to Germany and Switzerland and undoubtdly spectacularly beautiful.

Alsace is a region well-known for its medieval villages, hilltop fortresses, Christmas Markets, and quality wines. The most characteristic of the area is the Alsace wine route of 170km length, which is a magnificent blend of 120 fairytale towns and villages as well as vineyards. Angel’s tip: Did you know that the Alsatian vineyards are the only vineyards in France whose wines are mainly white?

Photo:  here

I first visited the capital of Alsace, Strasbourg on 2015 and I left with the best impressions.  But the trip I made and literally blew my mind was on December 2021 that I visited Zurich in Switzerland and took the train as a day trip to Colmar in Alsace. OMG! It was like a movie set with the Christmas decorations! I spent the whole day in Colmar Old Town strolling around the beautiful canals, the Christmas markets, the alleys and the cute restaurants. That day I decided I wanted to return next December to discover more of the Alsace region. And this is what I did!! On December 2022, I returned for 5 days to explore this beautiful area and I chose to stay in picturesque Colmar.

• Where to stay? The historic center in Colmar is my top recommendation! Colmar is beautiful, very centrally located in the Alsace region and has many options for food and even drinks. Angel’s tip: I stayed in a great Airbnb next to la Petite Venise but I saw many hotels as well with a convenient location like Hotel Saint Martin, Le Colombier, La maison des tetes etc. There are much cheaper options to stay in other villages around but keep in mind the transportation and convenience.
• How many days? 4-5 days are ideal to visit Strasbourg and many of these charming towns/villages.
• Best season? All year Alsace is beautiful. November & January: quietest months, Spring is wonderful with green vineyards and colourful flowers but my absolute favorite is late November-December. All the villages are amazingly decorated & there are so many Christmas markets to stroll around. It is magical!
• Closest airport? “Basel” airport in Switzerland. Other options are Strasbourg (similar distance from Colmar with Basel), Zurich, Stuttgart, Frankfurt, Baden-baden… 2-3 hrs distance each. You can take the train from Saint-Louis SNCF Station (France) or Basel Bahnhof SBB (Switzerland) or rent a car! Angel’s tip: Saint-Louis village is the last stop before you enter Switzerland and the closest train station to the Basel/Mulhouse airport since Basel airport doesn’t have a main train station. In Saint-Louis you can catch the bus that links the Euroairport with the French trains as well.
• Most famous villages in Alsace? Colmar is the most popular one, Strasbourg is the capital of Alsace and other smaller ones are Kaysersberg, Riquewihr, Ribeauville, Bergheim, Eguisheim, Turksheim. Obernai, Barr, Selestat, Bergheim, Dambach-la-Ville, Guebwiller etc. Some Alsace villages are part of the famous Alsace Wine Route, while others are off the beaten path.
• Do I need a car? If you want to stroll around easily to many villages in Alsace or you stay far from a train station, then a car is needed since many small villages have no train stations. This gives you freedom and more flexibility to make a day trip to the smaller towns. The A35 motorway crosses Alsace from north to south and it’s a distance that can be driven in under 2 hours. Angel’s tip: You can arrive in Strasbourg or Colmar by plane/train and then rent a car for the time that you will spend in the wine region. I rented from Zurich airport that I arrived.
• A nice idea if you don’t have a car: Use the train, taxis, local buses or book an organized day trip in “Get your guide”  website. You can find some options here.
• Villages/towns in Alsace accessible by train? Colmar, Ribeauvillé, Turksheim, Rouffach, Mulhouse, Dambach la Ville, Thann, Rosheim, Molsheim
• MUST do: Drink wine and have a wine tasting of the wines in the region. I had one in a wine bar, you can choose a winery of course!
• Food? I dare to say that I didn’t get excited with the Alsatian cousine (a blend of French & German cuisine). Hope you will though! Traditional dishes of the area include baeckeoffe, flammekueche (tarte flambée), coq au Riesling, choucroute (the national dish of Alsace), cordon bleu, Vol-au-vent, spaetzle, fleischnacka and bretzel.

Let’s discuss a bit more about the Alsace villages you need to visit on your trip:

STRASBOURG: The Capital of Alsace

Strasbourg is 2 hrs by train from Paris, it’s the capital of Alsace and its largest city. Things to know and see:

• Strasbourg is crossed by the Ill river. As such, it consists of several islands, but the most popular is the Grande Île (UNESCO World Heritage Site). It’s the historical centre of the city & the place where you can admire the main monuments and points of interest that make Strasbourg famous.
• Cathedral Notre Dame de Strasbourg is the symbol of the city & the oldest Gothic cathedral in the world. If you think you can do it, you can climb the stairs to the top of the cathedral (over 300 steps).
• Don’t miss Petite-France, Strasbourg’s most picturesque & visited area.

• Admire Barrage Vauban, a bridge built in the 17th century on the River “ILL” .
• Pass by Kléber square, the largest square at the center of the city  and Gutenberg square, located in Strasbourg’s Grande Île.
• The Ponts Couverts de Strasbourg are impressive (the covered bridges).
• You can find many museums like the Alsatian, the Historical, the Modern Art etc (some of them are inside the Rohan Palace).
• If weather is good and you have time, you can walk in the Orangerie Park, town’s oldest park.
• If you are a church enthusiast, you can visit other gorgeous churches in the city like St. Thomas, The Saint-Pierre-le-Vieux,  Saint-Pierre-le-Jeune, Saint-Etienne & St. Paul’s Church.
• In December , don’t miss the amazing Christmas markets available thoughout the city! Strasbourg city is known as the “Christmas Capital”.

COLMAR

Colmar is the most famous town in Alsace and it’s so magical! It is renowned for its well-preserved old town, its numerous architectural landmarks & its museums. It is situated on the Alsatian Wine Route and is considered to be the “capital of Alsatian wine”. From end of November till Christmas, the setting is stunning with the numerous impressive Christmas markets and the incredible decorations.

What to do in Colmar:

• Don’t forget to take a photo in “La petite Venise” and the “Quai de la Poissonnerie”.
• Have a boat ride (30 min) in the canal. (7€ per person)
• Visit impressive St. Martin’s Church in Colmar city center.
• Have a look at the covered markets. 
• Admire the architecture, some impressive buildings are: The house of heads, Maison Pfister, Koifhus (Old Custom House)
• Colmar has many museums, from toy to chocolate. The most famous one is the Unterlinden Museum.
• Try the Alsatian cuisine. Potatoes, bretzels, sauerkraut & sausages. Rösti, Alsatian Baeckeoffe (a casserole of meat, potatoes, onions, & other vegetables). Foie gras, poulet au Riesling, & quiche, Munster cheese, tarte flambée are famous…
• Outside the historic center, see the Statue of Liberty .

 

KAYSERSBERG

It is considered to be one of the most charming cities in Alsace with its paved streets and half-timbered houses. Beautiful during day and night! It has a castle with wonderful view from above. When I visited mid of December there wasn’t any Christmas market but it was very lovelyyy with its Christmas decorations. Angel’s tip: Reservations are needed in the restaurants, I had a dinner in a place called “Caveau du Schlossberg” but I don’t recommend it.

RIQUEWIHR

One of the most wonderful medieval towns in France nestled between mountains and vineyards. A must visit for me! Rue Charles de Gaulle is Riquewihr’s main street with Renaissance houses, framed with picturesque alleys and courtyards.

• The main street leads to the Dolder, a 25-meter tower which is the characteristic of this village.
• Riquewihr is well-known for its picturesque architecture, and wines.
• It is said to be the inspiration behind the town from “Beauty and the Beast” with Ribeauville.
• If you don’t have a car & you are staying in Colmar, take the bus no 106 from Place Scheurer Kestner in Colmar towards Riquewihr.
• The most popular shop in Riquewihr is “Féerie de Noël” , a shop that sells Christmas decorations all year long.
• The Riquewihr Christmas Market is one of the most wonderful Christmas Markets in Alsace.
• The region of Ribeauvillé-Riquewihr produces some of the best wines of Alsace.

RIBEAUVILLE

Ribeauvillé is one of the more famous villages on the Alsatian Wine Road, so charming and wonderful.

• As mentioned already it is said to be the inspiration behind the town from “Beauty and the Beast” together with Riquewihr.
• The region of Ribeauvillé-Riquewihr produces some of the best wines of Alsace.
• This is one of the villages in Alsace accessible by train, the train station is 3.2 km away from the village.
• Château du Haut-Kœnigsbourg close by the village is worth visting! It is truly stunning!

BERGHEIM

The fortified village of Bergheim is along the Alsace Wine Route and it’s one of the few towns in Alsace to have kept its medieval fortified walls intact.

Walk from the entrance of the village to the square with the fountain called “Place du Marché” and admire the charming brightly painted half-timber houses.

SELESTAT

Selestat is a small and charming city that is said to be the birthplace of the Christmas tree. Known for the Bibliothèque Humaniste and The Illwald forest. The impressive castle close by called “Château du Haut-Koenigsbourg” is just 12km away.

OBERNAI

Obernai is a beautiful and popular village in Alsace that you cannot miss! Some things to learn:

• It is 25 kilometres south of Strasbourg and 50 km from Colmar.
• Most of the highlights are in or close to the central square in Obernai.
• The Belfry is a 60 meter high tower, characteristic of the village.
• Obernai is the birthplace of the patron saint of Alsace, St Odile.
• It’s big, more like a town but it has retained its traditional character and magical charm, with its medieval defences, fortified towers, its half-timbered houses and its narrow alleys.

EGUISHEIM

Eguisheim has been ranked many times as “One of the Most Beautiful Villages in France”. A small, cute village with unique architecture, fountains, famous for the colourful flowers during spring/summer and the authentic charm before and during Christmas time.

TURCKHEIM

Turckheim is a small village on the Alsatian Wine Route near Colmar and one of the few villages that still has its city walls and gates intact .

• The Grand Rue is Turckheim’s main street which connects Place de Turenne with the Munster Gate.
• This village has many beautiful Renaissance mansions, most of them  half-timbered houses with rich decorative elements.
• Don’t miss the old town of Turckheim with the Guardhouse, the catholic church and the Town Hall.
• Turckheim is now the only place in Alsace where a night watchman, dressed traditionally in black and carrying a halberd and lamp, makes the rounds at 10 pm each night from May to October.
• It’s one of the villages in Alsace accessible by train.

MULHOUSE

Mulhouse is the second largest city in Alsace, very pretty and famous for the many museums like the Electropolis, History, Fine Arts, Ecomuseum, Printed Textiles and much more!

• Don’t miss to stroll around the historical Center.
• If you love classic cars, visit the Musée National de l’Automobile.
• Every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, the city has the famous Mulhouse market.

More villages you can visit in Alsace, less known & less crowded:

• THANN
• ROUFFACH
• MUNSTER
• DAMBACH LA VILLE
• BARR
• ROSHEIM
• MOLSHEIM
• HAGUENAU

CASTLES OF THE AREA

Alsace has interesting, medieval and mysterious vibes! In Alsace you can find 28 Fortified Castles from north to south, each one different and with its unique character.

• Haut-Kœnigsbourg castle: My favorite one, a medieval castle located in Orschwiller village in Alsace. A restored 12th-century mountain fortress with impressive views from above, great architecture, medieval garden & royal rooms. Full entrance fee is 9 euros, reduced is 7 euros and for kids 4-5 euros.

• Castle of Fleckenstein: A ruined castle in the commune of Lembach built on a sandstone summit in the Middle Ages.
• Hohlandsbourg Castle: Built on a mountain summit, this is the largest fortified castle in Alsace. It offers a magnificent all-round panorama over the plain of Alsace and the mountains. Over the past years, the castle has been completely restored but it is open seasonally.
• The castle of La Petite Pierre: This castle is built in the 13th century and it is perched in a lush green setting overlooking the Northern Vosges Regional Nature Park. You can take one of the many trails to discover the surrounding area and nature. Angel’s tip: Call before you visit since it is/was under renovation .
• Kaysersberg castle: It is an imperial ruined castle built around 1200, which dominates the village of Kaysersberg. Take the stairs to the top and enjoy the magnificent views of the village and its vineyard. The castle is ruined, entrance is free.

• Haut-Andlau Castle: Another medieval ruined castle in the commune of Andlau recognized as a historical monument since 1926. Don’t miss the magnificent view of the Alsace Plain. If you drive up from Barr, you can already see the two towers rising above the treetops. It is very impressive the fact that it is well maintained by a team of volunteers who restore the site.

Ideal Itinerary?

If you have a car and want to combine many villages during your visit, drive the Alsatian Wine Route & just stop wherever you want!  I will give you below some combinations you can make but all villages are wonderful! See as many as you can😊 Some are really small and don’t need much time to be discovered, while others have much more things to see and visit, where you can enjoy a coffee/ lunch/dinner or do some shopping in the the local shops.

1 day: Colmar town

1 day: Riquewihr, Ribeauville, Bergheim villages + Haut-Kœnigsbourg castle

1 day: Kaysersberg, Éguisheim & Turckheim villages

1 day: Obernai town, Rosheim, Molsheim and Barr villages

1 day: Selestat, Dambach la ville, Saint-Hippolyte villages + Haut-Kœnigsbourg castle

1 day: Strasbourg city

 

For more pictures and details check my posts & reels on Instagram!

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